The River of Lost Souls by Chuck Penna and Keith Hill
by Chuck Penna
Photography by Keith Hill
My good buddy Keith had told me about his trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad a couple of years ago. As he described his train ride in the rugged mountains of southwestern Colorado, he mentioned that the train followed the Animas River. After seeing photos of this river, we decided that there was no better place to end summer than with a high mountain fly-fishing adventure with transportation provided by steam engine.
We left Salt Lake at 7:30 a.m. in early September. After stopping for a quick lunch in Moab, we arrived in Durango at 3:00 p.m. Our first stop in town was at the Duranglers Fly shop where co-owner Tom Knopick showed us a map of the San Juan wilderness area. He gave us a brief history of the river. The Animas River (“river of lost souls”) was discovered by Spanish explorers in the 1700s. As the largest free-flowing river in Colorado, the Animas offers 110 miles of fishable water. A classic freestone river, the Animas begins in the mountains high above the historic mining town of Silverton, north of Durango. The river runs right through the center of Durango and eventually joins the San Juan River. A monster 30-pound Brown trout was pulled from the Animas River in downtown Durango years ago.
Tom suggested we get off the train at Needleton. This is a good spot to fish some nice holes and a short hike up the trail to Needle Creek a great place to camp. (Only the train services Needleton and camping is the only accommodation available.) Before we left the fly shop we loaded up on Elk hair caddis, Midges and Renegades. Tom wished us luck and told us to be careful of old miners’ ghosts which we might encounter in Needleton.
The next morning we threw our backpacks in the baggage car and boarded the Durango to Silverton train. The Society of American Travel Writers has named this as one of the 10 most exciting train trips in the country. The rail line was constructed in 1881. The Durango & Silverton has been in operation for more that 120 years. We headed 32 miles north, toward the historic mining town of Silverton. The train chugged through the town of Durango and followed the Animas River as it slices its path through deep, scenic cliffs on its way up the steep canyon towards Silverton.
We grabbed a couple of seats in one of the open-air cars as the train steamed towards Silverton. After a while two ladies in their mid-70s sat down beside us. They told us they were traveling up to Silverton for the day. We told them of our plans to be dropped off to fish the Animas River and to camp overnight. The older of the two told us if they were a few years younger, they would jump the train and go fishing with us. Before they changed their tickets, we quickly moved up toward the baggage car. We didn’t bring enough flys or beer for any unplanned guests.
As we neared a suspension bridge at Needleton, the conductor motioned to us that this was our stop. We were the only passengers leaving the train. Maybe the other passengers had heard about the Needletown ghost town. Matt Buswell, the train’s brakeman, helped us with our backpacks while telling us that he loved to fish this river in his spare time. He then took his black brakeman’s cap off and dug around. He pulled out a fly and carefully handed it to me. The hackle on the Lime Trude fly was flat from the lack of space in his cap. He pointed up the tracks and told us that one-mile up, across from an old wooden water tank, is a great section of river to fish.
As the train started its slow pull up the canyon, Matt jumped back in and waved goodbye. I wonder how many more flies he has stored in his cap. As the train receded, the roar of the Animas River surrounded us. It’s a remarkable sensation to be left in the solitude after listening to steam power for the last couple of hours.
After lunch, we followed Matt’s advice and followed the tracks a mile up to the old wooden water tower. I left Keith to photograph the tower and I went to find a path down from the railroad bed to the river. Just as Matt said, there was a nice, deep pool. I tied on the fly from his cap and cast up into the swirling pool. The fly floats for a second at the top of the pool before a hungry brook trout grabbed the fly and took off downstream toward Durango. I spent the rest of the afternoon wading this section of the river that can only be fished by train. The river edges are filled with nice holes that have many willing trout. I catch a couple more trout on Matt’s fly before a big cutt grabs it and is gone. I catch another eight fish before we decide it’s time to start the hike down to Needle Creek and set up camp. It’s dinner time before we reach Needle Creek train stop and I tell Keith that I’m sure all the ghosts have already left for a warmer climate.
We crossed a large suspension bridge to the other side of the river and hike up the trail past several old cabins toward Needle Creek. After a hike of a less that a mile, we find a perfect camp beside the creek. We dumped our packs and settled down for dinner. After dinner, I decide to try my luck on the Creek. According to the folks at Durangles, Needle Creek is a crystal-clear stream loaded with pan size brookies, browns, rainbows and cutthroats. As I reached the stream, I’m glad I brought a small fly rod with me. Trees and bushes overhang the banks of the stream. I pick a path to start down. Moss covered rocks fill the stream and have created some nice pools. I tie on an small Elk Hair Caddis and my first cast ends up in a tree behind me. I can tell this stream will require roll cast and is a good place to try a bow and arrow cast. I catch a dozen pan size Bookies before nightfall ends my long fishing day.
In the middle of the night, we are both awakened up by a loud noise that shakes our tent.
After a minute, we realize it’s not the ghosts of old miners thinking we’re taking over their claims, but a typical late-night mountain thunderstorm. It rains most of the night but by morning, we had clear skies once again. After breakfast and some hot coffee, we decided to fish Needle Creek until the train stops for us at noon. After catching a few trees and bushes, I catch a nice 10-inch Cutthroat. We fished the river until the train comes huffing and puffing around the bend into the Needleton stop right on time.
We boarded and ride the train up to Silverton. We checked into a classic 100 year-old B&B on a dirt Main Street. After storing our gear, we go looking for a local watering hole. We discovered the Handlebar Saloon. After a couple of Jacks on the rocks we were introduced to high altitude drinking and its quick affects. Our bar maid who was wearing a Sturgis “Wild & Free” tank top told us that our bar stools were a high elevation of 9,318 feet, and the big dumb grins on our faces were due partly to the fact we were only getting half the oxygen that you get at sea level.We thanked her for the quick geography lesson and headed back to our rooms to turn in for the night.
The next morning we rented a jeep to explore the mountains above Silverton. Keith was the driver and I was navigator. As we started driving into the mountains on some tough-looking dirt roads, I looked at my jeep rental map for the first time. It looked like a first grader had created it in art class. There looked to be 100 different trails we could take and a bunch of red lines over a lot we shouldn’t. I did, however, use this worthless map to locate an outhouse at 12,000 feet.
(Helpful hint: Bring your own topographical map.)
On the way back to Silverton, we fished the Animas River a few miles outside town using a dirt road which follows right along the river. There is a great fishing hole below an old iron bridge. It was raining but as soon as we reached the river sunlight broke threw the clouds right above where we were fishing. This was Keith’s first time fly-fishing. After a quick casting lesson, he got a cast right in the honey hole and a nice cutt took him for a ride. After catching a few more fish, the rain started again so we decided to head back to the Handlebar for some more high altitude geography lessons.
The next morning we grabbed some coffee and homemade muffins in a small café and walked down Main Street to the station to catch the train back to Durango. On the train trip down the canyon, I ran into Matt and told him that his hat hair fly caught the biggest fish of our trip. He smiled and pointed to his cap saying, “I’ll save another one for your next fishing trip.”
If you’re looking for a fly fishing adventure that combines steam trains, ghosts and some wild trout, board the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad and look for a brakeman named Matt who’s hopefully wearing his lucky cap that day.
When to Fish the Animas River
Heavy runoff usually lasts until mid-June, so the river starts fishing very well when it is high and clearing. Durango summers are warm and midday fishing is slow. Things really pick up in the fall when browns are spawning. The Animas is also a good winter fishery with a surprising number of moderate days. Water temperature near 40 degrees usually means good fishing.
Dry Patterns
- Elk Hair Caddis #12-16
- Wulffs
- Humpies
- Irresistibles
- Trudes #12-16
- Green Drakes #12 (during hatches)
- Sofa Pillow
- Stimulator #6-l2 (for stonefly and willowfly hatches).
Nymphs and Streamers
- Hare's Ears #I0-14
- Prince & Beadheads #8-16
- Caddis Larva & Pupa #12-16
- Bird's Stone #6-12
- Twenty-Incher #6-l0
- Halfback #6-12
- Woolly Bugger #2/0- 4
- Clouser Minnow #2/0 - 2
- Sculpins #2/0 to 2
Fishing is good above Silverton and the road closely follows the Animas River for easy access.
Narrow-gauge steam train is the only transportation to Needleton where the some serious fishing begins.
Built in 1925, refurbished steam locomotive No. 481 pulls into Needleton for a short stop before heading on Silverton.
Crewman signals the engineer on a departure from Needleton heading down canyon to Durango.
Following the suggestion of the train's brakeman, Chuck Penna works a sweet spot on the Animas about a mile above Needleton, Colorado.
A Forks Cabin: Clouds race over the San Juan Mountains in a front-porch view from a cabin in the ghost town of Animas Forks. Elevation 11,584 ft.
Travel Essentials
By Keith Hill
While fly fishing is the main draw of the Animas River, anglers will also find other compelling reasons that make this trip a satisfying adventure. Your off-river time will be well spent with fine dining, nightlife and comfortable accommodations – not to mention riding a vintage steam train through spectacular vistas.
Trip Duration
Not to be rushed, we planned a six-day trip:
- Day one – travel to Durango
- Day two – train to Needleton. Arrive 11:30A.
- Day three – train to Silverton. Depart 11:32A, arrive 12:30P.
- Day four – Silverton
- Day five – train to Durango. Depart 2:45P. Arrive 6:15P
- Day six – travel home
Where to Stay
Durango – Rochester Hotel includes breakfast and can arrange to store your vehicle while you’re on the trip. Great western hospitality, homemade granola, and great hosts, we give them five stars. Silverton – Wyndom Hotel, call ahead and they will pick up your luggage the day ahead while you stop at Needleton.
Important Considerations
Book your train tickets in advance. We called to arrange for our Needleton drop off. Also, check the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s website for the dates of Railfest. This is an extra busy time in Durango and we elected for quieter times. Round trip tickets start at $62.
Packing for this type of trip is problematic. Staying two an additional two days in Silverton, we needed to bring extra clothes, gear, etc. However, we didn’t want to carry everything we needed on the overnight stay at Needleton. Fortunately, the railroad will transport an extra bag for you, but you need to arrange for your hotel in Silverton pick it up. This is a common practice, but make certain you mark your bags not only with your name, but the hotel as well. We probably didn’t need to, but we tipped the conductor, who helped put our bags in the baggage car to aid in the process.
Reboarding the train at Needleton is a short turn around event so be on time and ready to board. About a dozen folks left the train, and half that number got on in about ten minutes. That includes unloading and loading bags. The train arrives at Silverton at 12:30 p.m.
All of our trip venues have websites for more information. Make certain you read thoroughly the one for the railroad and make reservations early if you’re going to be dropped off at Needleton. All aboard!
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